溪言 发表于 2008-2-29 21:20

【绿江见闻 】(20)惊心动魄鸭绿江

<P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 40pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.5"><FONT color=#1a1ae6><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><BR><IMG src="/attachments/Upfiles/2008229212735601.jpg"><BR><BR><BR><IMG src="/attachments/Upfiles/2008229212641737.jpg"><BR><BR>【绿江见闻</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"> </SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">】(</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">20</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">)惊心动魄鸭绿江</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 40pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.5"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><o:p><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;</FONT></o:p></SPAN></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 40pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.5"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><SPAN style="mso-tab-count: 1"></SPAN><FONT color=#1a1ae6>2</FONT></SPAN><FONT color=#1a1ae6><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">月</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">29</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">日</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">星期五</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"> <SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;</SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">正月</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">23<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">八九第七天</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">多云</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"> </SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">气温</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">-6</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">—</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">6C<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">水温</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">2</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">—</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">3C<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;</SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">微风</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"> <SPAN lang=EN-US><SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp;</SPAN></SPAN></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">距</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">2008</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">年</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">29</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">届北京奥运会开幕还有</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">161</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">天。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 32pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><o:p><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;</FONT></o:p></SPAN></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 32pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><o:p><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;</FONT></o:p></SPAN></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 32pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><FONT color=#1a1ae6><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">正在热播的</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">[</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">闯关东</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt">]</SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman">是我喜爱的电视剧,剧中有对鸭绿江的一大段描写。特转一帖,与同样喜欢该剧的人分享,加深对这条母亲河的了解。</SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 32pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt"><o:p><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;</FONT></o:p></SPAN></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 32pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><FONT color=#3d11ee><FONT color=#1a1ae6><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>[</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>转</FONT><FONT color=#1a1ae6>帖</FONT></SPAN></FONT><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>]</FONT>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#2222dd>闯关</FONT><FONT color=#2b2bd5>东之“</FONT><FONT color=#2222dd>木帮”:“</FONT><FONT color=#2222dd>水场子”</FONT></SPAN></FONT><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><BR><BR><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; </FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>在电视剧《闯关东》中,涉及了伐木、放排、采参、淘金等闯关东人所经历的职业,但对东北文化的描写稍显单薄。笔者愿意为上述四个职业添加一些东北文化的色彩。——题记</FONT></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><BR><BR><IMG src="/attachments/Upfiles/2008229213136931.jpg"><BR><BR><BR><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp;</SPAN>&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>从事木材砍伐与流送“木帮”活计分为两部分,“山场子”和“水场子”。山场子指的是上山伐木并运送到江边,水场子指将砍下的树穿成木排并顺江流放运送到山外。春天的到来意味着山场子的结束,所有的木材都被堆放到江边,水场子便开始了。</FONT></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><BR><BR><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;</SPAN>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>这些放排的木把,多是闯关东来的散户,在临江的地方找个小村子住下来,专等放排。每年到了四、五月份,“打扮人”(招收放排人的把头)便进村了,他们像挑选牲口一样,先看这些木把的体格、皮肤、牙口、腿脚,然后讲价。</FONT></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><BR><BR><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;&nbsp; <SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </SPAN></FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>水场子活儿首先要穿排。当年,木把用专门的工具,将木头凿出孔,再用藤条将它们连在一起,穿成六七十米长的庞大木排。刚开春,江水冰冷刺骨,木把们穿排的时候经常会被冻伤。排穿完了,就开始了漫长的放排时日。放排的总大把头叫做“头棹”,头棹要对山水之间的各种帮规习俗了如指掌,特别是江风、水势、天气、鸟兽、地俗、人情等都要有足够的了解,他需有平定一切的历练。</FONT></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><BR><BR><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT><FONT color=#2222dd> </FONT></SPAN><FONT color=#f73809><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#2222dd>旧时长白山“木帮”放排走鸭绿江、</FONT><FONT color=#2248dd>松花江两条黄金水路,俗称南流水和北流水。其中,南流水从长白县冷沟子顺鸭绿江一直放</FONT><FONT color=#3333cc>到老安东(今辽宁丹东)的沙河口,全长</FONT></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><FONT color=#3333cc>790</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#3333cc>公里,木排要走两三</FONT><FONT color=#1a1ae6>个月才能抵达。木把们日夜兼程,无论烈日炎炎还是暴雨倾盆,都必须加紧赶路,不能有半点疏忽。电视剧《闯关东》里面的放排就是比较原始的,没有动力,只能顺流漂,很危险。</FONT></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 32pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.0"><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><o:p><FONT color=#1a1ae6><BR><IMG src="/attachments/Upfiles/2008229213225261.jpg"><BR><BR>&nbsp;</FONT></o:p></SPAN></P><P class=MsoNormal style="MARGIN: 0cm 0cm 0pt; TEXT-INDENT: 40pt; mso-char-indent-count: 2.5"><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>因此,放排有怕风不怕雨的说法,若是赶上天气恶劣,刮起大风,木把为了安全,往往会停排靠岸,休息半晌。这时,他们才能忙里偷闲,抽袋烟,闲聊几句,欣赏一下两岸的青山绿水。等天气稍一好转,就要立刻出发了。直到今天,在江边的空地上,仍然零星分散着一些木桩,每一根木桩上都隐约可见深深的勒痕。这些木桩是当年木把用来栓排的,天长日久,绳子就在木桩上留下了痕迹。</FONT></SPAN><FONT color=#1a1ae6><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black">&nbsp;<BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;<FONT color=#1111ee> </FONT></SPAN></SPAN></FONT><FONT color=#1111ee><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>“木帮”放排曾是白山黑水间的一道风景:庞大宏伟的排队绵延几公里,浩浩荡荡穿行于崇山峻岭之间,蔚然壮观。鸭绿江水流</FONT><FONT color=#1111ee>湍急,木排行进时,往往随着波浪半浮半沉,忽上忽下,木头之间砰砰乱撞,发出骇人的声响。面对随时可能出现的危险,木把们必须要眼疾手快、反应灵敏。在这样的放排生涯中,每个木把几乎都</FONT><FONT color=#1a1ae6>练就了一身过人的胆识和本领。尽管艺高人胆大,但是木排经过一些险要地段时,木把们仍然不能掉以轻心。当地人将一些险滩、江汀、礁石、陡崖称为恶河或哨口,这些地方布满岩石和暗礁,像一只只蛰伏的怪兽,张开狰狞的大口,等待木排的到来。对于木把而言,它们不亚于一个个“鬼门关”。长白山两条放排路线不知道葬送了多少木把的生命。</FONT></SPAN></FONT><FONT color=#1111ee><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><BR><IMG src="/attachments/Upfiles/2008229213731287.jpg"><BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp;<FONT color=#f73809>&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN><FONT color=#2222dd>&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN></FONT><FONT color=#f73809><FONT color=#3809f7><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#2222dd>鸭绿江上</FONT><FONT color=#421ae6>有名有姓的哨口有</FONT></SPAN></FONT><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><FONT color=#421ae6>80</FONT></SPAN><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1a1ae6>多个,每一处都异常凶险。但是,只要木排上了路就再也无法回头,放排原本就是在风口浪尖讨生活的行当。尽管有着非凡的勇气和本领,可面对放排途中种种无法预料的生死关口,木把也不得不听天由命,将希望寄托在无法看到的神灵身上,祭拜河神也就成了这一行当的特殊行规。木把们上排前,先要在排窝子里烧香,杀猪,供拜水王,即龙王。然后杀</FONT><FONT color=#421ae6>鸡,把鸡血滴进碗里喝血酒。一旦起排,不能说不吉利的话,尤其是“翻”字。比如,吃鱼如果要翻过来,就说“划过来”。管筷子叫“顺子”。人们奉上猪头烧酒,点上香,虔诚祭拜,以求得神灵的保佑。这香又叫稳当香,意思就是要图个平平安安、稳稳当当,也恰恰映射出当年的木把对平安美满生活的一种最原始的向往。这一仪式发展到今天,已成为当地的一种风俗。</FONT></SPAN></FONT><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><FONT color=#1a1ae6><FONT color=#421ae6>&nbsp;<BR></FONT><BR></FONT><FONT color=#1111ee>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<SPAN style="mso-spacerun: yes">&nbsp; </SPAN>&nbsp;</SPAN></FONT><FONT color=#3d11ee><SPAN style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black; FONT-FAMILY: 宋体; mso-ascii-font-family: Times New Roman; mso-hansi-font-family: Times New Roman"><FONT color=#1111ee>在长期和风浪打交道的过程中,木把逐渐形成了勇敢坚毅的性格和与众不同的处世方式。对他们而言,放排不仅仅是一种谋生的</FONT><FONT color=#421ae6>手段,也是一种因征服大自然而享有的精神上的满足。当他们在大江中出生入死的时候,心中始终怀有一种对美好感情和幸福生活的向往。因此,当木把们顺利放排到丹东之后,往往会挥金如土,毫</FONT><FONT color=#2222dd>不吝惜。而木把侠义豪迈的性格,也使他们成了许多姑娘心目中的英雄,从而也成就了一段段特殊的姻缘。</FONT></SPAN></FONT><SPAN lang=EN-US style="FONT-SIZE: 16pt; COLOR: black"><FONT color=#2222dd>&nbsp;<BR></FONT></SPAN><SPAN lang=EN-US style="COLOR: black; mso-bidi-font-size: 10.5pt"><BR><IMG src="/attachments/Upfiles/2008229214135728.jpg"><BR><BR><BR><?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><v:path o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></v:path><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype></P><SPAN lang=EN-US style="COLOR: black; 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HEIGHT: 233.25pt" alt="搜狐社区网友上传图片" type="#_x0000_t75"><v:imagedata o:href="http://image3.club.sohu.com/pic/e7/36/jjxt00187e0ad2754383ac.jpg" src="file:///C:\DOCUME~1\ADMINI~1\LOCALS~1\Temp\msohtml1\01\clip_image001.jpg"></v:imagedata></v:shape></SPAN></P></SPAN></SPAN><BR><br><br>[此帖子已被 戏言 在 2008-2-29 21:48:56 编辑过]

中国人民很行 发表于 2008-2-29 21:39

介绍的很好,长知识了,介事年轻人一般都不知道

山东迷踪拳 发表于 2008-2-29 21:44

我的祖籍在天津,听父母说那时家里有十几条大船,家里吃鱼不能翻鱼身,饭碗和盘子也要朝上放着,图个吉利

年年有鱼 发表于 2008-3-2 07:28

丹东,我的故乡,愿你更家美好!

刘娃娃 发表于 2008-3-8 19:30

我见过黑龙江、乌苏里江里放木排的。
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